CHEMISTRY PROJECT

CHEMISTRY PROJECT

On

Different stain removers & their effect on different types of fabrics.

Project Prepared By:

                               Roll Number:                                                                               Board’s Roll Number:

                               NAME OF SCHOOL :

AIM

COMPARITIVE STUDY AND QUALITATIVE ANALYSIS “ DIFFERENT STAIN REMOVERS & THEIR EFFECT OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRICS “

CERTIFICATE

It is hereby to certify that, the original and genuine investigation work has been carried out to investigate about the subject matter and the related data collection and investigation has been completed solely, sincerely and satisfactorily by ................ regarding his project titled “Content of Cold Drinks Available in the Market”.

Teacher’s signature

Acknowledgement

It would be my utmost pleasure to express my sincere thanks to My Chemistry Teachers Mrs.--------------, Mrs. -----------------in providing a helping hand in this project. Their valuable guidance, support and supervision all through this project titled “Different Stain removers & their effects of different types of Fabrics ”, are responsible for attaining its present form.

You may not know this, but some of the very best stain removers are things you use every single day. Not only do these spot removers work great – they’re right at your fingertips! If you are looking for stain removal materials for a specific item, I have created pages for, Fabric Spot Remover Solutions.

Below is a list of the most common spot removers. Some people may want to reach for their favorite Commercial Spot Remover to get rid of those nasty stains. Or, if you prefer to keep it 100% green, I have created a list of strictly Natural Spot Removers which can be just as effective at getting the job done.

This is your guide to the different categories of stains and how to beat them.

Protein-Based Stains

These are caused by such substances as baby food and formula, cream- or cheese-based foods, eggs, feces and urine.

For fresh protein stains on washable fabrics, cold water is sometimes all you’ll need to remove them. Don’t use hot water, because it can cook the proteins, causing the spot to coagulate between the fibers in the fabric.

1. Soak fabrics in cold water for half an hour, put the spot under running cold water, and gently rub the fabric against itself to loosen the spot.

2. Launder in the washing machine in warm water.

For an old or dried protein stain on a washable fabric, you may have to take your spot-removal tactics to the next level.

1. Soak fabrics for half an hour in a solution of 1 teaspoon of liquid detergent (preferably one containing enzymes – the label will say whether it has them) per 1.75 liters of cold water.

2. Follow this soaking by laundering the fabric in your washing machine in warm water.

3. Inspect the item before drying. If the spot is still there, soak the fabric an additional half hour and then launder again.

4. If the spot remains after that, your only option may be to add the recommended amount of bleach to the next wash cycle, especially if the spot was caused by colored ice cream or baby food.

For a fresh protein stain on carpeting or upholstery, spray with cold water and blot, repeating until clean.

For a dried protein stain on carpeting or upholstery

1. Create a solution of ¼ teaspoon mild dishwashing liquid (one that doesn’t contain lanolin or bleach) in 1 liter of cold water.

2. Apply the solution to a cloth, and use a blotting motion to work the solution into the affected area.

3. Blot with a clean paper towel to remove the solution.

4. Rinse by lightly spraying the spot with water and then blotting. Do this until all the soap suds are gone. Then spray lightly with water again. Don’t blot this time. Instead, lay a pad of paper towels over the spot, put a weight on it, and let it dry.

5. If the spot persists, repeat the procedure with a stronger solution: ½ teaspoon of liquid detergent (preferably one containing enzymes) per 1 liter of cold water.

6. If that still doesn’t completely remove the spot, moisten the stained patch with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let it stand for one hour. Blot and repeat until the carpet or upholstery is spot-free. No rinsing is necessary following this procedure, because light will cause the peroxide to change to water. To dry, use the method mentioned previously involving a pad of paper towels and a weight. But be careful: hydrogen peroxide is bleach and can whiten colors.

Oil-Based Stains

These include spots from car grease or motor oil, hair oil and mousse, hand lotion, kitchen grease, lard, butter, bacon, oils, ointments, salad dressing and suntan lotion. Oil-based spots aren’t as difficult to get rid of as most people think. Many prewash spot-removal products contain special solvents for removing oil and grease.

For oil-based stains on washable fabrics

1. Pretreat new and old spots with a commercial prewash spot remover. If you don’t have one of those products, apply liquid laundry detergent (or a paste made from granular detergent mixed with water) directly to the spot. Work the detergent into the spot.

2. Immediately after pretreatment, wash the item in the washing machine in hot water (if that is safe for the fabric and colors).

3. Before drying the fabric, inspect it. If the spot is still evident, repeat the process until it is gone.

For oil-based stains on carpets and upholstery

1. Apply isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to a clean white cloth or white paper towel and blot the spot. Discard the dirty towels and repeat using fresh paper towels and alcohol until the spot is gone. Don’t let the alcohol penetrate the carpet backing, as it can destroy the latex lining.

2. If that treatment doesn’t remove the spot, try the method recommended above for removing dried protein spots from carpeting and upholstery.

Tannin Stains

These include spots from alcoholic drinks, coffee or tea without milk, fruits and juices, soft drinks and wine. Most jellies also contain tannins, but cherry and blueberry jellies should be treated as dye spots.

For tannin stains on washable fabric

1. Soak for half an hour in a solution of 1 teaspoon liquid detergent (preferably one containing enzymes) per 1.75 liters of warm water.

2. Then launder in the washing machine in the hottest water that is safe for the fabric, using laundry detergent and not soap. Natural soaps – including soap flakes, bar soap and detergent containing soap – make tannin spots harder to remove.

3. To remove stubborn tannin spots, you may need to wash with bleach. If all the sugars from one of these spots aren’t removed, they could turn brown when put into the tumble dryer as the sugar will caramelize.

For tannin stains on carpeting or upholstery

1. Lightly apply a solution of ¼ teaspoon mild dishwashing liquid and 1 liter water. Use a blotting motion to work the solution into the affected area.

2. Blot with a clean paper towel to remove the solution.

3. Rinse by lightly spraying with water and blotting to remove excess water. Do this until all the soap suds are gone.

4. Spray lightly with water again, but don’t blot. Instead, lay a pad of paper towels down, weight it and let it dry.

5. If the blemish persists, repeat the procedure using a solution of ½ teaspoon liquid detergent (preferably one containing enzymes) per 1 liter of water.

6. If that doesn’t completely remove the spot, moisten the tufts in the spoted area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let it stand for one hour. Blot and repeat until the spot has disappeared. No rinsing is necessary following this procedure. To dry, lay down the weighted pad of paper towels mentioned above.

Dye Stains

These include spots from blueberries, cherries, grass and mustard. Dye spots can be problems. After all, dyes are usually meant to stick. They’re what color our clothes.

For dye stains on washable fabrics

1. Pretreat with a commercial prewash spot remover. Or apply liquid laundry detergent directly to the spot, work the detergent into the spot, and rinse well.

2. Soak the fabric in a diluted solution of oxygen bleach (identified as “all-fabric” or “perborate” on the label), following the directions on the packaging. Launder.

3. Inspect the item to see whether the spot is still there. If so, try soaking the entire garment in a solution of chlorine bleach and water. (Again, follow the directions on the bleach container.) But be careful: bleach can drastically alter colors and weaken fabric.

For dye stains on carpets or upholstery, good luck. You may have to call a professional cleaner or, in the case of a solid-colored carpet, cut the spoted part out and patch it with clean carpet. But before you go that far, try the procedure described above for tannin spots on carpets or upholstery.

Combination Stains

These contain both oils or waxes and dyes. They are commonly divided into two categories:

• Group A combination spots include those from lipstick, eye makeup (mascara, pencil, liner, eye shadow), furniture polish and shoe polish.
• Group B combination spots include chocolate, gravy, hair spray, face makeup (foundation, powder, rouge), peanut butter and tomato-based foods.

To remove these spots, you first must remove the oily or waxy portion, and then you can try to remove the dye. As with any tough spot, your success is not guaranteed. But by following the steps below, you do stand a chance, especially if you get to the spot while it’s fresh.

For washable fabrics with stains in Group A

1. Begin by applying a dry-cleaning solvent, available from pharmacies.

2. Rub with a liquid detergent and scrub in hot water. This should remove the oily or waxy part.

3. Launder, using a laundry detergent and an oxygen or all-fabric bleach.

4. Inspect before drying. If the spot persists, try washing with chlorine bleach.

For washable fabrics with stains in Group B

1. Skip the dry-cleaning solvent. Rub the spot with a liquid laundry detergent.

2. Launder in the washing machine in the hottest water possible for the fabric.

3. If that doesn’t work, try first the oxygen bleach and then, if that fails, the chlorine bleach.

Ø Theory

Useful Stain Removers

Absorbent: Cornstarch, cornmeal, talcum powder, or fuller’s earth (which is available in pharmacies) can be used to absorb greasy stains.

Acetone: Use pure acetone or non-oily nail polish remover on stains like nail polish or correction fluid. Do not use acetone on fabrics containing acetate or triacetate. It will melt these fibers! Be careful, too, on rayon, silk, and wool. Use with caution and in a well-ventilated area: Acetone is quite flammable and gives off fumes.

Alcohol (isopropyl): A good solvent for some difficult stains, including grass and ink, but toxic and highly flammable; has antiseptic properties; requires sparing use in well-ventilated areas away from sparks, flames, or heat sources; necessitates the protection of skin and eyes and avoidance of prolonged exposure to its fumes; may cause some dyes to run; must be diluted with water before being used as a stain remover on acetate, nylon, silk, and wool.

Ammonia: Purchase the household version of ammonia, which works well on dried blood, perspiration, citrus, juice, felt-tip pen, urine, and other acid-based stains. Note, however, that ammonia can damage silk and wool fibers. For stain removal purposes, stay away from the sudsy or scented offerings. Test ammonia (and all stain removers) on an inconspicuous part of your fabric, carpet or upholstery first since it can cause some dyes to run. And never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia – the resulting fumes are hazardous.

Baking soda: Also known as bicarbonate of soda and sodium bicarbonate, baking soda is used in baking to aerate cakes and bread, but it has many other household uses. A gentle, moderately alkaline, non-toxic abrasive, baking soda cuts through grease and oil because it reacts with the fatty acids to form mild detergents. Use baking soda to clean, deodorize and buffer, and to extinguish fires. You can even use it to clean your teeth!

Bleach stain removers: Keep two types on hand – chlorine and oxygen (all-fabric) bleach. Read the fabric care label to determine which bleach is safe for your fabric. When in doubt, use the oxygen bleach. Never mix oxygen and chlorine bleach. When combined, they cancel each other out.

Borax: A mildly alkaline powder most often used as a laundry booster to enhance soil removal; a reasonably good deodorizer; useful in some stain removal applications.

Bran: A safe, stable, absorbent material for soaking up wet or oily stains on upholstery or carpets.

Club Soda: My favorite “Oh my gosh, how did I do that?” spotter. Use it on any fabric or surface that can be treated with water. A slight dabbing on dry-clean-only fabrics is also permissible, just be sure to test first! Use club soda on any spill – ask the waiter for some if you’re dining out – dab it on and blot it off. Club soda keeps spills from becoming stains and brings the offending spill to the surface so it can be easily removed. It’s totally safe. I always make sure to have a bottle on hand.

Color remover: Available where fabric dyes are sold, this product removes dye stains from whites that are washed by mistake with colored items. The Good Housekeeping Research Institute recommends Carbona Color Run Remover and Rit Color Remover.

Cream of tartar: I bet you have some of this in the kitchen cupboard, but how often do you use it? Well, here’s your chance. Mix cream of tartar with lemon juice and you have a wonderful bleach for white clothes spotted with food or other stains. It’s even effective on many rust stains.

Denatured alcohol: This is an industrial alcohol reserved for heavy-duty cleaning. Don’t use it near an open flame, and make sure to dispose outside the home any rags that were used to apply it. Launder or clean anything that you treat with it as soon as possible. Look for this in cans at hardware stores and home centers. When stronger action is required, purchase denatured or isopropyl alcohol, which is available in pharmacies. Note that these alcohols have a shelf life.

Denture cleaning tablets: The cure-all for white table linens with food stains and white cotton with stains. Dissolve 1 tablet per ½ cup water. Pour directly on stain or spot.

Detergent stain removers: For all-around stain removal on fabrics, choose a bleach-free liquid detergent with enzymes. For stain removal on carpets and upholstery, choose a bleach-free, lanolin free liquid hand dishwashing detergent, such as Dawn or Joy. A useful formula for stain removal is 1 tablespoon of liquid laundry detergent or liquid hand dishwashing detergent dissolved in 2 cups of warm water. You can also rub full strength liquid laundry detergent into stains. If you are treating a stain on an item that contains wool or silk fibers, do not use an enzyme detergent. Enzymes are “protein eaters,” and these fibers are proteins.

Dry-cleaning solvent: This is a generic term for solvent-based liquids and sprays that are particularly useful for oily or greasy stains. One popular version is a powder that you spray on, let dry, and then brush off. Generally, dry-cleaning solvents are formulated for both dry-clean-only and washable fabrics, but read the product label to be sure. Some are specifically formulated for specific types of stains, such as pet stains; others are formulated for specific textile categories. Many carpet cleaners and upholstery cleaners are dry-cleaning solvents. With any dry-cleaning solvent, repeated light applications are more effective than one heavy application. Always rinse out the solvent completely before laundering any item treated with solvent. The Good Housekeeping Research Institute recommends Afta Dry Cleaning Solvent and Stain Removers.

Enzyme presoak stain removers: These products break down protein stains, such as blood, grass, and baby formula. A laundry detergent that contains enzymes can also be used for presoaking.

Erasers (art gum and regular): Mildly abrasive for rubbing away pencil marks, greasy spots, and dirty fingerprints on painted walls and wallpaper; keep a couple on hand as stain removers only, and rub them clean after use.

Glycerin: Particularly useful for stains on carpets and upholstery, glycerin softens hardened stains. It is especially effective for mustard and curry stains, and is available in pharmacies.

Hair spray: A solvent used to remove ink stains; success results from its high content of denatured alcohol, a highly toxic and flammable ingredient; conveniently comes in a handy spray bottle; should be used sparingly and in good ventilation; cheaper types tend to work better and have fewer additives that may contribute stains of their own; should be used with care if applying to acetate, silk, or wool.

Hydrogen peroxide: This is useful for stubborn stains such as bird droppings, feces, and chocolate. Be sure to use a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide, the type sold in pharmacies as a mild antiseptic.

Kitty litter (non-clumping type): Get the plainest kind available, and use as an absorbent for greasy or oily spills in your garage or driveway, or for large liquid cleanups like vomit.

Lemon juice: This is nature’s bleach and disinfectant. I don’t know where we’d be without it. If you have spots on white clothes, apply some lemon juice and lay them in the sun. Apply a little more lemon juice prior to laundering or pre-spray and launder as usual. This is really effective on baby formula stains.

Meat tenderizer: A combo of meat tenderizer (unseasoned, please, or you’ll have a whole new stain!) and cold water is just the answer to protein-based stains such as blood, milk, etc.

Nail polish remover: I caution you to use non-acetone polish remover first. It’s much less aggressive than acetone polish remover.

Non-gel toothpaste: This is just a fancy name for old-fashioned plain white toothpaste. Gels just don’t work, so don’t even try.

Paint remover: Use the water-rinsible variety to soften hardened paint stains (both oil and water based). Paint remover is available where paint is sold.

Petroleum jelly: It softens hardened grease, tar, and oil stains.

Prewash stain removers: Your favorite brand of stain remover is often the first line of defense against stains. But be sure to read the label, as the product may not be suitable for all fabrics. And there may be a recommended time frame for use.

Rubbing alcohol: This is good for removing ballpoint ink, pencil, mascara, and colored candle wax residue, even from dry-clean items. Don’t purchase rubbing alcohol with added color or fragrance; it may damage the fabric.

Rust stain removers: Choose a commercial rust remover, available in supermarkets and hardware stores, or a 5% oxalic acid solution, which is available in pharmacies. Oxalic acid is poisonous, so always wear rubber gloves, rinse garments thoroughly to get rid of any traces of the rust remover, and avoid contact with skin and eyes. Always follow package directions carefully. The Good Housekeeping Research Institute recommends Rit Rust Remover (for washable white fabrics) and Whink Rust Remover (for colorfast fabrics).

Salt: Sprinkling salt on spilled red wine will keep the wine from staining until you can launder it. Mixed with lemon juice, salt is one of the best stain removers for mildew spots.

Shampoo: Any brand will do. Cheap is fine. I save the small bottles from hotel stays and keep them in the laundry room. Great for treating ring-around-the-collar, mud and cosmetic stains.

Shaving cream: That innocent-looking can of shaving cream in your bathroom is one of the best spot and stain removers available. That’s because it’s really whipped soap! If you have a spill on your clothes (or even your carpet), moisten the spot, work in some shaving cream, and then flush it with cool water. If the offending spot is on something you’re wearing, work the shaving cream in and then use a clean cloth to blot the shaving cream and the spot away. A quick touch of the blow-dryer to prevent a ring and you’re on your way. The best thing about shaving cream is that even if it doesn’t work, it won’t set the stain, so the spot can still be removed later. Keep a small sample can in your suitcase when you travel. It’s saved me more than once!

Soap (pure): This stain remover can be used as a mildly alkaline cleanser; useful for loosening oily or greasy stains; should not be used on fruit stains, as it will set them.

Sodium thiosulfate: Pure sodium thiosulfate, or “fixer,” sold in pharmacies and photo-supply stores, is used to remove iodine and chlorine-bleach stains. Unless it is kept very tightly capped, this product has a shelf life of only several months, so you will probably want to buy only on an “as needed” basis.

Vegetable oil: For loosening dried grease stains for easier removal; should be combined with abrasives (ashes, rotten stone) for rubbing the stains on finished wood.

Waterless hand cleaner: Use a waterless hand cleaner, sold in grocery stores and drug stores, as a prewash for stubborn oil and grease stains. Work the cleaner into the fabric and remove it with warm water.

WD-40 Lubricant: Check out your garage of the “fix it” cupboard. If you don’t have any, pick up a can the next time you’re at the hardware store or home center. Why? Because we’ve all had those nasty grease stains and oil stains on clothes: salad dressing misses the salad and gets the blouse, or grease splatters when you are cooking – or crayon, lipstick, Chap Stick gets on your clothes! WD-40 is your answer. Spray some on, wait 10 minutes, then work in undiluted liquid dishwashing soap and launder as usual. Works well on everything except silk!

White vinegar: This is the only variety of vinegar that can be used for stain removal. The others will add stains, not take them away! White vinegar is particularly effective on old perspiration stains and for neutralizing pet stains and odors on carpets or upholstery. It can also help restore color that has been damaged by the stain itself or by the treatment process.

Keep these stain removers on hand so you can act quickly and those spots won't stand a chance!

Their effect of different types of fabrics

COTTON

• Don’t use chlorine bleach or fabric softener on children’s cotton nightclothes. Both of these substances will harm the flame-retardant finish, which is mandated by law for children’s sleepwear.
• Vinegar, with its high degree of acidity, can be harmful to cotton. If you use it for stain removal, sponge the stain with the vinegar solution, then wash the item immediately.

SILK

• Don’t use acetone.
• Don’t use chlorine bleach.
• If the silk is washable, avoid detergent with enzymes. Use a mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent or a product specially formulated for silks; baby shampoo is a great substitute.
• Don’t use prewash fabric stain removers with enzymes.

SPANDEX

• Don’t use chlorine bleach on anything with spandex fibers. It will destroy the elasticity.

WOOL

• Most wools are dry-clean only; some (particularly wool knits) can be gently hand washed and air-dried. Check the care label.
• If the wool is washable, avoid detergents with enzymes. Use a mild liquid hand dishwashing detergent or a product specially formulated for washing wool – or try baby shampoo instead.
• Don’t use prewash stain removers with enzymes.

What Fabric Stain Remover Removes What

There is more than one way to remove a stain. You will read widely different remedies for the same problem, all of which may work. But there are some stains that you have to give up on. Some stains will respond gradually, so that you will have to apply your remedy a half dozen or more times before you are completely successful. You may need all your patience. Test the effect of any fabric stain remover you choose to use on an inconspicuous area. Many substances that will remove stains sometimes cause fabric to deteriorate or affect dyes or finishes.

The following collection of fabric stain removers will serve for most purposes. The majority of the items included are also used in other ways in the home.

• All purpose detergent
• White vinegar
• Lemons
• Bleaches – hydrogen peroxide (3% solution), commercial oxygen (all-fabric) bleach, household chlorine bleach.
• Ammonia
• Alcohol
• Nail polish remover (acetone type)
• Solvent type cleaning fluids, dry cleaning fluids, or spot removers (for use on items that require dry cleaning)
• Non-solvent stain or spot remover (these contain detergents and water and cannot be used on items that require dry cleaning)
• Enzyme pretreatment product or detergent
• Laundry stain pretreatment product (some contain solvents)

1. Detergents. The best fabric stain remover for practically all types of textile “stains” is plain detergent and water. I follow common usage in referring to just about any soil as a “stain,” but in my family we use that word to refer only to marks that would not come out at all after ordinary efforts. When you read ads for fabric stain removers that remove food and grease “stains,” don’t be deceived. Rarely should extraordinary efforts be necessary to remove spaghetti sauce or butter smears from your child’s clothes. Usually, if you simply scrape off the excess, rub in a little liquid detergent, and throw the article into the washer with hot water and more detergent, the “stain” disappears. Generally speaking, granular detergents are better at stains that respond to builders, such as mud and clay, because these detergents rely more on builders for their cleaning power. Liquid detergents are better at organic stains such as gravy, blood, and grass because they rely more on surfactants for their cleaning power. But most detergents of either type will remove food stains and oils and grease effectively.

Most stubborn food soils respond readily to pretreatment, whether with a pretreatment product or a little liquid detergent rubbed into the spot. Oil stains on synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon are the most resistant. For these, a solvent-containing prewash stain remover is particularly helpful. In general, when fabrics are prone to staining or just to be sure, you should pretreat spots. Presoaking laundry is also highly effective. Enzyme presoak products help with food soils.

If, after washing, you find a spot, do not dry the article and certainly do not iron it. Heat sets many stains. Instead, try to treat the stain again while the article is still wet, and pretreat, presoak, and launder again.

2. Bleaches. These fabric stain removers are used to render the staining material colorless and invisible, as well as to help actually remove it. A mild bleach such as hydrogen peroxide will be safe for almost every white fabric. It will remove most fruit stains. Test it before using on any colored fabrics. Chlorine bleaches can be tried on chlorine bleach-safe fabrics (most whites, some colorfast colors) to lighten or remove a wide variety of stains, among them those caused by coffee, tea, soft drinks, Popsicles and fruit ices, children’s medications, grass, mustard, fruits or fruit juices, ink, or blood. But chlorine bleaches will not work on rust.

3. Acids. Acids are used on rust, oxides, and mineral deposits. If a clothes hanger leaves rusty marks on a shirt, you might apply a solution of lemon juice with water or white vinegar mixed with water, then rinse thoroughly and launder (or see Rust Stain Removal). You could try the same solution on brown or yellow spots in stored linens, as these tend to be caused by oxidized residues of soil or detergent. (In each case, half-and-half proportions are usually good enough, but you might sometimes try full strength for more effect. Some people add salt to the lemon juice solution. You must test a lemon juice or vinegar solution on an out-of-sight area of the article, just as you test detergents and spot removers, as such a solution can adversely affect some fibers and some dyes.) There are also commercial rust removing preparations, such as Whink, that you can buy at home centers, houseware and hardware stores, or stores where washing machines are sold. These commercial preparations contain acids (hydrofluoric acid or oxalic acid); read their labels and follow all cautions carefully.

Warning! Do not mix acids or acid-containing substances with chlorine bleach or substances containing chlorine bleach. This will produce hazardous fumes.

4. Ammonia. Ammonia, which is alkaline, is sometimes used to neutralize acid substances. Purchase the household version of ammonia, which works well on dried blood, perspiration, citrus, juice, felt-tip pen, urine, and other acid-based stains. Note, however, that ammonia can damage silk and wool fibers. For fabric stain removal purposes, stay away from the sudsy or scented offerings. Test ammonia (and all fabric stain removers) on an inconspicuous part of your soiled item first since it can cause some dyes to run. And never mix chlorine bleach and ammonia – the resulting fumes are hazardous.

5. Alcohol. Alcohol is an effective solvent for cleaning and eliminating stains, and it kills germs too. Alcohol comes in several forms and is an organic compound consisting of hydrocarbons. It’s a colorless liquid, has a mild odor and is highly flammable. Common forms are isopropyl alcohol (often called rubbing alcohol, used for massages, as an antiseptic and as a cleaning solvent) and ethyl alcohol, or ethanol (the stuff in alcoholic drinks and a common ingredient in cleaning products, mouth wash and hair sprays). Denatured alcohol is ethanol that contains a small amount of poisonous methanol, or wood alcohol, making it unfit for consumption. It’s commonly used to thin or remove paint and varnish and to remove greasy smudges from surfaces. Rubbing alcohol is good for removing ballpoint ink, pencil, mascara, and colored candle wax residue, even from dry-clean items. Don’t purchase rubbing alcohol with added color or fragrance; it may damage the fabric.

6. Solvents. Water is the universal solvent, since it can be used to dissolve many different substances, from dirt to blood to certain paints. In cleaning terminology, however, solvent refers to liquids other than water that are used to dissolve things water can’t dissolve. Water can’t dissolve grease, for instance. Working on the principle that “like dissolves like,” you’d need a non-water-based solvent, such as mineral spirits, to dissolve grease. Common cleaning solvents include acetone (found in many nail polish removers), denatured alcohol and turpentine, as well as petroleum-based chemicals, such as mineral spirits, naphtha, paraffin and dry-cleaning fluids.

Cleaning uses for solvents typically include removing greasy or oily substances, cleaning materials that can be harmed by water (for instance, spot-cleaning dry-clean-only fabrics) and removing decals, wood finishes, oil-based paint and waxes. These fabric stain removers are a last resort, to be used for the few things that water and detergent won’t clean. Solvents tend to be strong, aggressive cleaners. Although they can be dangerous to breathe and dangerous when they contact your skin and eyes, they vary in their degree of toxicity.

7. Enzyme pretreatment products. Enzyme digesters are chemicals, created by microorganisms, that eat away organic matter. So they’re effective on organic stains – in other words, such unpleasant things as urine, vomit, feces, protein stains and the odors associated with them.

This fabric stain remover makes a great laundry presoak that eats away at organic stains before you run garments through the wash. Use warm water in the soak, according to the package directions (the exception being blood, which requires cold water). Careful: enzymes will eat away at animal fibers, including silk and wool. Enzyme treatment products can be obtained from supermarkets and pharmacies.

8. Spot removers. The grocery shelves are lined with spot and stain removers. While the number of different ingredients in fabric stain removers is mind-boggling, these products fall into two main categories – wet and dry.

Wet spot removers are water soluble. These typically contain a concentrated laundry detergent and work best on food stains, such as drink spills and ketchup. They may also contain secondary solvents, such as alcohol and mineral spirits to boost their stain-removal power and make them more effective on greasy stains.

Dry spot removers contain chemical solvents, including some that dry cleaners use. (Liquid is still involved. The “dry” means water isn’t used.) These are best for dry-clean-only fabrics as well as greasy or oily stains.

A word of caution: be sure to use the right fabric stain removal product for the right job. To make sure the material you’re cleaning is colorfast, pretest the product on an inconspicuous corner or seam. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully.

Keep the above fabric stain remover materials on hand to increase your chances of spot removal success!